Guide

How to measure your fridge space

Five minutes with a tape measure saves most fridge-buying mistakes. Measure the space, not your old fridge, and write every number down in millimetres.

You’ll need

1. Width

Measure between whatever is either side: cabinets, a wall or a pantry. Walls and cabinets are rarely perfectly straight, so measure at the top, the middle and the bottom and use the smallest figure.

Front view of a fridge space Width is measured between the cabinets on each side at the top, middle and bottom; height from the floor to the underside of the cupboard above, at the front and the back. Cupboard above W topW middleW bottom H Use the smallest width and the smallest height.
Width at three heights, height from the floor to the underside of the cupboard above.

2. Height

Measure from the floor to the underside of whatever is above: a cupboard, a shelf or a bulkhead. Measure at the front and at the back. If the floor isn’t level, use the smaller number. If nothing is above the space, note that instead; the finder has an option for it.

Many fridges need a gap above them for air. Some manufacturers ask for more when a cupboard sits directly above with little space behind it, so tell the finder whether there is a cupboard.

3. Depth

Measure from the wall behind to the front of the cabinets beside the space. Look for anything on the wall that the fridge can’t push past: skirting boards, power points, water taps or pipes. Measure to those if they stick out.

Side view of a fridge space Depth is measured from the wall behind to the front of the cabinets beside the space. Skirting boards, power points and water taps on the wall reduce the usable depth. Skirting Power point Cupboard above Front of thecabinets beside D (narrowest point) Doors may stand here
Depth to the narrowest point. The doors of many freestanding fridges are designed to stand in front of the cabinets.

4. Where the doors can go

Two questions change which figures apply:

Plan view of fridge doors opening beside a wall Seen from above, a door hinged next to a wall can only open until it touches the wall. Manufacturers give extra side space so the door opens far enough for drawers and shelves to come out. Wall Fridge door at 90° gap Wall behind
Seen from above: a door beside a wall needs a gap to open far enough.

5. Air gaps

Fridges release heat, so manufacturers ask for gaps at the sides, top and back. The finder uses each manufacturer’s own figures. Where a manufacturer gives a minimum cavity size, that figure already includes the gaps, and we don’t add them again.

6. The way in

A fridge that fits the space still has to get there. Measure the narrowest doorway, hallway and turn on the way in, and note stairs or a lift. Doors can sometimes be removed for delivery; ask the retailer. We don’t check delivery routes.

Ready?

Take your numbers to the fridge finder. It checks each model against the manufacturer’s figures and tells you what still needs checking.